A muzzle is a good idea for now. I recommend Baskerville.
However, it’s important to understand WHY he’s behaving this way. That way you can then help him to switch off and relax. Check out the free webinar, you’ll love it!
The Reactivity Webinar happens weekly on Wednesday and Sunday at 3pm EST (USA time). The link for the webinar is here, and you can choose this week or the following week: https://theonlinedogtrainer.com/reactivity-webinar/
If you register, you’ll get the recording via email after the webinar

The most important step in correcting this behaviour is to understand WHY your dog is behaving this way. Very often this is to do with them thinking they are more important than they actually are – hence (in the dog way) “telling off” the human who tries to correct them. When you are able to communicate to them that they can switch off and relax because the humans are in charge, everything changes and becomes a lot easier.

Here is a link to a blog post that explains more about dog aggression:
http://theonlinedogtrainer.com/the-ultimate-guide-to-dealing-with-dangerous-dog-aggression-issues/

… and here’s one about dogs biting their owners : http://theonlinedogtrainer.com/when-dogs-bite-their-owners/
You would also benefit from one of my programs. I’d recommend The Complete Pack http://theonlinedogtrainer.com
All the best, Dan

Hi Landon,
It really does depend on the type of information you are giving your dog when working with this type of behaviour. The key factor is that you are actually assessing the behaviour correctly, so you understand why it happens, but then you also know exactly the right response to help your dog relax in situations he may find threatening. A lot for aggression is fear-based, where a dog is in a situation where they feel overwhelmed and they panic. By recognising how your dog feels about these situations you will be able to formulate a strategy that means you are proactively addressing the behaviour before it happens…if that makes sense! I have an extensive list of topics covering aggression but more importantly I teach you the strategies that deal with the root cause of this type of behaviour….or any other behaviour!
My website TheOnlineDogTrainer.com shows you very clearly how to achieve this…maybe take a quick look…its a $1 trial for 3 days…all the best Doggy Dan

I have a 2yr old Wolfhoundx who has aggression tendencies, currently I am seeing a behavioralist for him but it very much seems like it is 2 steps forward and 10 steps back!!
I am really worried that he will never achieve the level where I freely take him around humans and dogs, I have spent so much time and money on trying to solve the issues but with little to no result!
I am worried he will hurt someone and it will be a mistake that ends his life (not cause I choose but cause the law does)
He misses out on fun and interaction cause he can’t be trusted and I feel trapped cause I can’t go away or anything like that cause I can’t allow him to be looked after by anyone…he could have a lot better of a life if he could learn but it doesn’t seem he can be helped! I follow all training but I am losing hope.

Hi Stephanie,
Many dogs do prefer to eat undisturbed and generally I respect their rights to do that and leave them to eat in peace. I know that if I’m in a restaurant eating I also prefer if the waiter doesn’t interrupt me to often, I guess I also like my personal space in these situations as well because I love my food! The reality for dogs is a bit more serious though because their instinct is to feel perfectly justified in protecting food that is in their possession. They don’t want to risk it being stolen from them otherwise they may not survive! In some cases the more you get involved in touching them when they eat, the more unsettled they become because they see this as constant competition for their food. A growl is a warning to back off and it’t generally a communication that owners should respect, rather than punish. If it’s causing your dog to be unsettled around food then my advice would be to leave him in peace to eat and if he isn’t happy about other dog being fed nearby then give him a little more space or feed him in a separate area. We do discuss this issue on my website TheOnlineDogTrainer.com …maybe take a quick look…its a $1 trial for 3 days…all the best Doggy Dan

Right, but he has (rarely) been aggressively REACTIVE towards people too, which includes me since the beginning! There haven’t always been warnings, generally speaking. Even if your site has answers for the dog situation, I cannot stay on at $37 p/month. I have to put his food and supplement need(s) first. That’s why I don’t know what to do.

Hi, we have a lot of members who have sought us out to assist with dogs who behave aggressively towards strange dogs. One thing to be aware of is that dog generally view all other dogs as potential dangers and so they may react in a way that is motivated by keeping themselves safe and alive. This is a behaviour you can change just by showing your dog that he doesn’t have to worry about other dogs because you know how to keep him safe. The key is knowing how to respond to his behaviour so that it enables him to stat to relax around other dogs. His past is a factor, especially if he has had negative experiences with other dogs, but you can start to change his future behaviour by remaining calm and consistent when he starts to show signs that he is uncomfortable. My website TheOnlineDogTrainer.com shows you very clearly how to achieve this…maybe take a quick look…its a $1 trial for 3 days…all the best Doggy Dan

Hi Adele,
Adding another dog to the family can be a big adjustment for both dogs, the existing and the new dog. It’s a time where they both try to work out where they fit and so owners can play a very important role here in ensuring this is done respectfully. If you notice your older dog behaving in a way that you don;t like then intervene before things escalate. You could place your dog calmly in another room for a minute or so so he understands that this behaviour will result in him losing everyone, or you could calmly place him on a leash and have him with you until he relaxes and shifts his focus away from your new dog. It’s really important that you stay calm and relaxed as telling him off or getting overly excited will not be helpful. Set the rules and stick to them consistently so that your dog understand exactly what behaviours are not tolerated. Be patient, this is actually a very normal transition process and it often does calm down quite naturally.
If you feel things are not calming down or you would like a little more information then my website TheOnlineDogTrainer.com covers this issue…maybe take a quick look…its a $1 trial for 3 days…all the best Doggy Dan

Hi Valerie, there is no doubt that some dogs do require a little more patience than others and it sounds like you have make great progress. If your male spaniel is unhappy about your new dog being too near him then I would advise you to call or move your new dog away from him. It is important that your spaniel feels he has the ability to communicate that he wants to be left alone with your new dog but it’s also important that you intervene if you feel things are escalating. The fact that they are both male dogs may have a lot to do with the behaviour but just monitor things to ensure they are relaxing around each other. Keep up the great work! Dan

Hi Claudia,
As far as most dogs are concerned their number one priority is the safety of their family, and they can view strangers as a threat to that safety. If your neighbour does anything to validate your dogs belief that he may be a threat, like yelling at your dog or entering your property unexpectedly, then this can be really counterproductive in calming things down. You can certainly change this behaviour but it does take knowledge of the right way to do that, to remove your dog’s sense of responsibility. At the very least around strangers I would have your dog on-leash so you have greater control and also ask your neighbour not to shout at your dog if you feel comfortable doing that. If not then it may be better to have your dog indoors if you aren’t home to supervise his behaviour with your neighbour.
We deal with both barking & aggression in great detail on my website TheOnlineDogTrainer.com …maybe take a quick look…its a $1 trial for 3 days…all the best Doggy Dan

Hi Sheri,
Some dogs do commonly behave this way around small children, especially if the children are running around playing and screaming/laughing. Young children are less predictable in their actions and body language than older children and adults and they can be a little confusing and unsettling for some dogs. Also, if young children are running and screaming then they can sound a little like ‘prey’ and it can trigger a dog to chase them…..of course I am not saying that your dog wants to eat these children but the behaviour you describe can be very instinctual.
The most important thing is that you are proactive and cautious when your dog is off-leash around small children. If your recall is not all that great around distraction then it may be better to place your dog back on-leash and spend a little time practicing recall in these situations. Allowing him to observe children playing, at a safe distance and on-leash, may also help as you will be able to control his behaviour but it will also allow him to analyse the situation calmly. If he gets a little excited then gently hold him by the collar until he relaxes again. You can also try to use some treats/toys to refocus him on you, but often these things aren’t very effective if he is really excited and so you are better to move him away so he can calm down.
I have given you a few strategies but really the best way to overcome your dog’s behaviour around small children and cats is to deal with the behaviour from it’s origin. My website TheOnlineDogTrainer.com shows you very clearly how to achieve this…maybe take a quick look…its a $1 trial for 3 days…all the best Doggy Dan

Hi there Schlomit, thanks for your post.
I agree that watching this later its easy to see how it could have been avoided and since he snapped it was clearly too much too soon.
At the time though my opinion was that (even though he was a bit shy and fearful) he would be accept the connection and we would form a good bond of trust.
However Buck is a special case and so he needs special care and patience.
There was no intention to put and blame anywhere, he did his best and I did mine 🙂
Getting to touch him was always going to be touch and go but the best news is that he is doing really well since the training.
Always happy to share from what I do. Take care – Doggy Dan

You can retrain her to be less reactive however the best way to do this is indirectly by showing her she can relax, that you have it all under control. I am sure that a lot of her skittish behaviour is due to her being on edge. If you want to give the method a go for $1 trial for 3 days its here TheOnlineDogTrainer.com Its exactly what I showed the owners of the dog in this video and its working well…all the best Dan

Hi Ann, I know exactly what you mean! I personally treat all dogs with exactly the same respect because I know that in their instinct I could be a very real threat to them and their family. So to take pressure of the dog I initially give them time to get used to my presence and I don’t speak to them, touch them or make eye contact until I feel they are calm and have left me alone. If I think they are ok with my presence then I will call the dog to me for the pat/fuss as this gives them a choice. If they are not ready to interact with me then they won;t come, but if they do come them they are ready for a pat/fuss. Also, if I haven;t asked them to approach me and they do, then I don’t pat them at this point as they may just be assessing me at a closer distance rather than them being ok with me. In this example I then wait for them to walk away a couple of steps and then call them to me for a pat/fuss. This is a really important interaction to get right, for both the dog and the human! Best, Dan